It’s a case of a double bow here.
The first one is done by tying the tie into a bow and the second one by using the loose ends to create another bow.
Archive for July, 2010
CHARVET 30
On July - 25 - 2010
A normal knot again despite the tie being the result of three bowties sewn together along the neckpiece.
The number of ties can be increased at will.
MUSEUM
On July - 23 - 2010
To the “Gianni and Marella Agnelli picture gallery” of Turin there is an exhibition that cannot be missed until 29th August.
There is a big selection of paintings coming from an anti-conventional museum and full of ideas, both in the content and in the setting up, as few institutional spaces are able to be.
We are talking about the “Museum of Everything” opened in London last year and already place of destination for many of the most renown artists, critics, musicians and writers, which have been often invited to compare themselves with their activity and works.
WALTER ALBINI – THE ASTROLOGY 2
On July - 21 - 2010
It was his way to go on, to build, to renew himself, to give shifts , to briskly break any kind of scheme.
Ready to get angry, obstinated, superstitious, perfectionist.
He used to exhaust himself by bringing all his emotions to the extreme.
He knew to have an erotic panic fire inside of him.
He used it.
In a frenetic way.
With men and women.
Impalpable influences.
Egocentric manipulations.
The disillusion made him hill.
Only then he left the things and the persons he loved.
He lived day by day.
On the vulnerability of the opposite sites that were fighting in his mind.
Inventing the new was a moment of judgment of himself, of valuation of his own capabilities.
He created difficulties to overcome them.
He always started again.
He moved between beginnings and ends.
He believed in astrology.
He was predicted that the first years of the Nineties he would have had a great success.
He has not seen it.
He tests the cocoon of his creations.
Still not completely opened.
And his zodiac sign painted with oil and crystals.
Theatricality of the sign on a white background.
Bright needles piercing through the dark of the inelegance.
WALTER ALBINI
by Carla Sozzani
tests by Anna Masucci
MOSCONI 29
On July - 16 - 2010
The apparently normal knot requires the bowtie to be sufficiently wide to be folded in half length wise.
This allows to achieve a more opulent and dynamic effect.
WALTER ALBINI – CHANEL 2
On July - 15 - 2010
He adopted, from the tailor who dressed rich women in a poor way, the experimentation with the fabrics.
Especially for the knitwear.
It is the unisex, launched by Chanel in the Twenties.
A challenge against the conformism, an arrow launched to shorten the distance between man and woman.
Chanel represents for Walter the functional elegance, an occidental fashion classic.
He designed and commissioned the production of hangers having the sharp face of Mademoiselle.
She was the steel thread, the soul allowing him stylistic excursions in other territories.
He gave Coco Chanel, who loved the essentiality of women’s body, a symbolic gift three years before dying.
He sent to California a sketch for a competition on how the woman of year 2000 would have been.
Out of theme.
But so revolutionary that he was second qualified.
A woman’s naked body in a rainbow sphere.
“She does not need clothes on”, the wording showed.
“She will use a chemical pill to make her skin transparent showing the tonalities of her emotions.
The woman of the future will wear the colours of emotions.
Changing them every day”.
WALTER ALBINI
by Carla Sozzani
tests by Anna Masucci
THE BOETHIUS-15
On July - 15 - 2010
ANONYMOUS – IVORY DYPTICH KNOWN AS “THE BOETHIUS”- DATING FROM 487 – BRESCIA MUSEUM
The Toga Picta, consular garment par excellence, is handed down from the late antiquity to the beginnings of the medieval period.
The rich gold embroidery and heavy decorations with precious stones to replace the drapery or “sinus” of the classic period, only allow a semi rigid lapel on the chest.
Worthy of notice are the embroidered toga sleeves and the sandals with crossed straps (guigge).
BERLIN 28
On July - 14 - 2010
It is an exuberant and flamboyant shape embellished by a small detail which, at first sight, might go unnoticed: the perfectly centred knot is created by a diagonal fastening of the tie.
DO HO SUH
On July - 13 - 2010
An absolute genius of the contemporaneous art, a poet of images …
He is the Korean artist Do Ho Suh born in Seoul in 1962, but moved since he was young to the United States where he finished his artistic studies and where he lives today.
The sign of an extraordinary Oriental elegance and refinement pervades every single work, also the ones having a more strict political and critical content against the masse society or the military organizations.
But we can only be enchanted in front of his aerial installations and read where the shell of a body is supported by a parachute of clothe, or by the silk and nylon structures reproducing with a transparent and flying material actual living structures, rebuilt through his remembrances.
The work “Reflection” is wonderful, where an oriental arc is spectacularly reproduced above and below the plane of a translucent surface representing water.
THE SURREALISM
On July - 12 - 2010
The continuous presence of the surrealism in our society
The surrealism going from Salvator Dalì to Viktor and Rolf
Salvator Dalì and Elsa Schiaparelli were the true personification of an ancient binomial of the same art, the one between dream and fashion.
The surrealist movement, sweeping away every sector of the cultural system of the 20’s, fixed indeed the coordinates of a new way of making fashion, where there was the freedom to imagine, to escape from reality, to make the body soft, inconsistent, extraneous to the physical rules.
It was exactly this need to give shape to “oneiric creatures” that spurred Elsa Schiaparelli to delegitimize the proportions of the female figure, inverting its meaning, transforming the famous female in a simple chest of drawers.
The big artists of the surrealist period, the already mentioned Dalì and Schiaparelli, the less known Lee Miller and Man Ray, apart from being leaders among the artistic avant-guarde of the beginning of the 20th century, they seem to revive in the actual fashion parade of the Haute Couture, as the photographic report of Tim Walzer shows, published on Vogue of March; “nightmares and dreams” dominate also the fashion parades of the prêt à porter where the Nordic Victor & Rolf changed completely the most classic tulle skirts, transforming it into an apple bitten by a mysterious and unknown worm.
The woman does not discover, but covers, involves, goes back to the beginning of her own and she even transforms herself in an egg.
The models are spirits, plumed fairy, the main actresses of this “Magnificent tragedy called modern art” (Salvator Dalì, 1950).
Alessia Rafanelli
