To achieve this effect it is necessary to have a light yet firm and crisp fabric like taffeta as well as an asymmetric cut with one of the ends wider than the other.
Archive for June, 2010
WALTER ALBINI – THE ASTROLOGY 1
On June - 28 - 2010
“As all the people under the Pisces sign they are potentially sensible”
Water and Fire.
Pisces sign with Leo ascendant.
The anticipating intelligence to the access to vitality.
The initiating mysteries and generosity.
The melancholy and narcissism.
Two souls.
The man, pride and power.
The woman, beauty and perfection.
Inseparable.
Confused spirals to be hidden behind an always different mask.
The arrhythmic of seduction.
Cadences without scansions.
The hunter becomes prey to taste the bitter sensuality of defeat.
Wild grasps.
Devoted caresses.
The Moon under the sign of Cancer.
Restlessness, female sensitivity.
Creativity without restraint.
Impossibility to dominate the instinct.
Sexual abuses.
Natural clairvoyance.
A life was not enough.
He told he was on the Titanic in the night of the shipwreck.
He survived, but then he died in a car accident.
This is why he did not drive.
He was a dignitary at the Pharaoh’s court.
Eyes made longer with the make-up, lips painted in alabaster colour.
He had the talent for dominating a continuously changing itinerary.
He used to take quick decisions.
WALTER ALBINI
by Carla Sozzani
tests by Anna Masucci
VULPINARI TAILOR HOUSE 2
On June - 27 - 2010
Shelves with fabrics were waiting for you together with models to be chosen, according to his very precious advice, listing the characteristics of all the fabrics, indicating the good and bad aspects of the model chosen for each member of the family; each of them was dedicated all the necessary time.
The second phase was dedicated to the measurements, that were very peculiar and scrupulous and they were reported on a book dedicated to the client that was kept under control and changed in case of size change.
As far as children are concerned, who were growing up, it was left an abundant edge for the future different lengthening.
In that occasion the date of the first fitting was fixed.
And here the actual work starts.
First phase: the creation of the model, the sign with the chalk on the fabric and the cut.
Second phase: the tacking.
At the first fitting in front of a huge mirror the sealing was the main aspect to be checked (the tailor’s house skill was well known) and the changes were carried out with pins and marking on the dress.
RENE’ MAGRITTE AND AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA: THE STRANGE COUPLE
On June - 27 - 2010
A very lively and explosive fashion parade Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is an event confining with the theatre or with the circus’ fable aspects and it is like that also when her inspiration comes from a great and cheered artist as René Magritte.
In the wise and a bit crazy hands of the Spanish fashion designer, also the surreal and scary themes of the Belgian painter are full of irony and play and every psychoanalytic characteristic of Magritte’s oneiric subjects is left apart for being substituted by the fun and playful hyperbole.
In the autumn-winter 2010 collection among the colourful sculpture-like-dresses of Agatha we can find punctual citations but never obvious together with titles of many paintings of this maestro of the surrealism, in love with the optical illusion of the estrangement.
It is the case of the busts made with cages or bricks, or of the enlarged details of the body, or again the exchange between what is inside and outside, with dresses that instead of containing her they become flesh.
All this lived through the joyful and optimistic filter of the pink glasses of a magic-stylist that will continue to make people talk about her.
OSLO 24
On June - 25 - 2010
This is like a “Lavalliere”, “toned down” by the ends cut to resemble in shape and size the bid of a long tie.
Worthy of note is the contrast between the size of the loops and the ends.
WALTER ALBINI – CHANEL 1
On June - 24 - 2010
![Walter+Albini_thumb[10]](http://www.dressspace.org/./wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Walter+Albini_thumb10-248x300.jpg)
“Who is your favourite historic personality?”
“Coco Chanel”
“Your actual favourite personality?”
“Coco Chanel”
A hint uniting his whole inspiration.
Rigorous cut.
Absolute simplicity.
Accessories as essential elements.
Narrative methods taken from the Chanel revolution.
Known from the first models.
20’s style jackets with shawl necklines having swan edges.
And bare 30’s style tailleurs, hat adhering to the face.
His style as a base for many revisited versions.
Always interpreted with a different spirit.
He never copied her.
For respect.
He considered her the Muse.
The unique.
He dedicated her gifts of love, an entire collections which entered to be part of fashion rare myths.
He met her once only.
In Paris.
Already at her fading, with thick make-up and a lot of jewels on.
And him, obsessed by the mature beauty, complete and perfect, dreamt that all women could look like her.
They would have been able to make their bracelets jingling on the wrists, could learn the art of being natural.
They would have learnt that luxury is a sweater on a black skirt.
He used to say that he could only fall in love with a Leo women.
Because Chanel’s sign was Leo.
“They are queens”.
With a background of great naivety.
And they are always alone because they use men as much as they need them, then they leave them”.
WALTER ALBINI
by Carla Sozzani
tests by Anna Masucci
ANNA WINTOUR
On June - 23 - 2010
POWERFUL AND DECEITFUL, THIS IS WHY THE FASHION SYSTEM FEARS THE DIRECTOR OF VOGUE AMERICA
THE DEVIL WITH STILETTO HEEL SHOES DECIDING WHAT IS GOOD AND WHAT IS BAD
Blond pageboy cut and dark glasses.
She banned the tights even if it snows.
So under the Chanel and Prada tailleur she shows always naked legs, slim and trim, despite she is almost 61.
And she runs out from the defile on her stiletto heel shoes before the last model reaches the backstage.
So she almost never claps her hands for the lucky fashion designer of the moment, since she runs away surrounded by body guards, without giving to much satisfaction.
Vogue America’s director earns 2 million dollars per year.
She is the one deciding what is good and what is bad in fashion.
The legend says that her days are all the same and start every time at 6 in the morning, before the tennis match, then the hair dresser and again the cappuccino (her preferred food), then the selection of her personal wardrobe.
Born in London from a noble family, her great-great grandmother was Lady Elizabeth Foster, duchess of the Devonshire, Wintour has been a rebel since she was young: she has been banished from the college because she used to wear too many mini-skirts, she started working as shop assistant at Biba’s because she loved fashion that much, with the indignation of her father Charles, director of the newspaper “Evening Standard”.
No alternative for someone with the fashion running in the blood like her therefore the immediate climb towards the specialized press (Harpers & Queen, Harper’s Bazar, Vogue England) and then in 1989 to New York for running “Vogue America”, following in Diana Vreeland and Grace Mirabella’s wake.
Having left the husband David Shaffer with whom she has had Charles and Katharine, today Anna Wintour is concentrated only on her work and herself.
And she has to protect herself, many people say, from her colleague Carine Roitfeld director of “Vogue France” , who could oust her from his post.
ARI SETH COHEN
On June - 22 - 2010
A photographer looks for old eccentric people in the street
And his blog with images becomes a cult
A fashion dictated by real life
The photographer Ari Seth Cohen, 28 years old, has created a blog of great success.
The original thing is going around searching for models older than 60.
Photos shot in the street to persons wearing clothes with taste, not necessarily elegant, but with a marked sense of personality and style.
Old people that have been young in the sixties and adult during the wonderful seventies.
“Elderly people” do not have anything to show anymore and they do not have to seduce somehow.
This is why these persons considered old are freer and more inventive.
Having fun, keeping in shape, using the life style and the creativity to remain vital and enthusiast”.
Elio Fiorucci says, street fashion guru and theorist of the individual originality in terms of style to dress:
“Those who have listened to the Beatles’ music when they were young can not forget it even though they are grannies now.
The fashion is the writing of our personality and this becomes even more true with the time.
Indeed today, more than once, we wear following our taste and not the age”.
The photographs vary from the clothing to the research of the most original accessories: scarves, hats and shoes which is the more exciting session.
Ari Seth concludes:
“Honour your father and mother, above all honour your grandparents and try to learn from them two or three small things on how to enjoy life”.
SLICE 23
On June - 21 - 2010
It is the rarest and more unusual of the bowtie cuts.
In reality though, it is actually a very simple and effective solution.
VULPINARI TAILOR HOUSE 1
On June - 19 - 2010
A family story.
Story of the Vulpinari family.
It was in the 30’s and, as this photo shows, the whole family is at work.
The founder of the family can be recognized, Mr. Giuseppe Vulpinari, called Fin, while he is working on a jacket, supported by the sisters Anna, at the treadle sewing-machine and Pina, working on the finishes.
Gosti is standing up, being in charge for the ironing.
The working environment is surrounded my sketches and patterns of haute couture suits and at the centre the photo of a dead relative, who could not to be forgotten and who was in the heart of all of them.
The whole village and the surrounding areas used to go to this tailor’s and the tradition required that everything had to be renewed for the two ceremonies of the year: Christmas and Easter.
The ceremony used to start already months before (the dress had to be absolutely ready to be put on).
Therefore all the family (parents and children) used to go to the tailor’s, and there you entered into another world.
The tailor was a highly regarded person, as the doctor and the pharmacist.
