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They appear as “beheaded” in ad campaigns, “To better valorise the outfits”.

Helmut Newton, the “smiling “revolutionary photographer who loved to break the rules with his irruent and powerful genious, who used to reply to the request for advice by young photographers with a “ typical Newton –style” ironic remark:

“If you want to be called back a second time, make sure the dresses stand out more than anything else”.

Today, the outfits stand out so amazingly in that the model’s heads have been literally cut off or blotted out to leave more room for dresses and accessories .

You can see advertising posters featuring models without faces everywhere.

Even Karl Lagerfeld’s advertising campaign for Dior menswear – in role of a photographer this time – surprised many with his shots of a male model who is looking the other way.

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BIRTHDATE OF OUR FACEBOOK PAGE

01/02/2010 can be read the same forwards and backwards.

A fascinating palindromic date.

Endless night is the title of one of Agatha Christie’s novels where the captivation of palindromic words is well illustrated (those that are spelled the same backwards as forwards), for example, words like  radar or the name of the famous intellectual Asor Rosa. And also, the 1^st of February of this year:  01.02.2010.

Of course, palindromes are considered as such depending on language, notation and different calendar systems (we write 19 but for us this isn’t a palindrome, but it is if it is written the way the ancient Romans did: XIX).

It is a matter of coincidence, but according to the statements in the famous correspondence between the great physicist Wolfgang Pauli and one of the fathers of psychoanalysis, Carl Gustav Jung, coincidence can be extremely revealing, and convey information on the symbolism through which we relate to the things of this world.

The fascination of palindromic words (found in many civilizations) have been subject of research by logicians, physiologists and mathematicians: the case of Douglas Hofstadter (author of Godel, Escher, Bach) is exemplary as it is based on the magic of symmetry that seems to bring order and balance to the chaos of the Universe.

Nonetheless, philosopher Francesco Bacone understood that some symmetry has to be broken to be able to appreciate beauty and life itself. If we had remained slaves of palindromes, we would never have learned, as children, to read and write or tell right from left, or even past from future, unless we had become politicians, where some clever “palindromic “ fellows always manage to work their way up, passing from Right to Left and vice versa, known as opportunists or better, “time – servers” (description taken from an image of the bestiary).

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8. – Headstrong. Vivid colours and patterns, imperious and impetuous like commands shouted out loud on the battlefield.
9. – Asymmetrical.  For example, the right end of the sleeves and jacket front will be round and the left sleeve end square. Ingenious counter attacks of lines.
10. – Transitory, to allow unceasing renewal of the enjoyment and impetuous animation of the body.
11. – Variable, through the application of fabrics of different width, thickness, pattern and colour, whenever and wherever you like, and to whatever part of the outfit by means of pneumatic buttons. Everyone can reinvent his/her own outfit anytime. The change will be arrogant, irritating, out of tune, determinant, warlike, etc.

The futurist hat will be asymmetrical with joyous and aggressive colours. The futurist shoes will be dynamic, different from one another in shape and colour, suitable for gladly giving a kick to all neutralists.

Matching of yellow and black will be brutally ruled out. Everyone will think and act according to how they dress. Since neutrality is the synthesis of all  forms of die –hardness,  we futurists brandish today these antineutral outfits, in a warm and bellicose manner. Only the podagrous will disapprove of us.

The Italian youth altogether will identify within us their living futurist banners for our great war, necessary and URGENT.

As long as the Government refuses to lay down its die-hard apparel made of fear and uncertainty, we shall double, or MULTIPLY  BY A HUNDRED THE RED of the tricolour colour we wear.

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The illusions of bioengineering and robotics appear to be leading to the materialization of the old superhuman myth.

In reality, each and every man has always been a superhuman: being able to project beyond his nature into the dimensions of language, arts and fashion.

A garment, with its unpredictable inventions and evolutions constantly surpasses the natural being of the human body, adding an element of taste and culture.

The robot will thus never be human until the day it will be able to create its own garments and choose, autonomously, its own tie.

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He shook my hand and gave me the so-called proof of the award, whose bad taste, like all the other forms of awards that I have received, was unsurpassed.

I was not going to say something on that stage, nor had I been asked. So I only said a short Thanks! to calm my embarrassment, and immediately left the stage and went back to my seat.

At that point Mr. Hunger also went to sit down and the Philharmonic Orchestra played a piece by Beethoven.

While the Philharmonic musicians were playing, I was thinking about the ceremony just ending, I had of course not had the time to take stock of the humor, lack of taste and recklessness with precision.

As soon as the Philharmonic musicians had finished playing, Minister Firnberg stood up, immediately followed by President Hunger, and both went on stage.

Now everyone in the room got up and tried to make their way up to the stage, of course, heading for the minister and President Hunger, who spoke with the minister.

I, with my aunt, stood nearby as though frozen and listened with growing shock to the frenetic buzz of about a thousand of people around us.

After some time, the minister looked round, and with a tone of incomparable arrogance and stupidity in her voice, asked, “but where has our little writer got to?” I was right next to her, but dared not make myself known.

I took my aunt’s arm and we left the room. Without anyone holding us up or even noticing, we left the Science Academy at one o’clock in the afternoon.

Outside some friends were waiting.

With them we went to lunch at the so-called Bierklinik Gosser.

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Sergio Rossi and the other maestros design the destiny of the next season.

Pointed shoes and breathtaking heels are coming back and again with the plateau.

The flat shoes and thick heel season is finished again.

“The return of the elegance, a classicism recovered but made contemporaneous by the researches carried out on the structures, becoming the fundamental element of this collection” explains Francesco Russo, Sergio Rossi’s designer.

The winter collection is characterized by a “décolleté with a thin internal plateau accentuating the verticality of the heel and emphasizing the height, with sculptural heel and pointed toe”.

The colours range from the absolute black to anthracite, from brown to some touch of colours: fuchsia, gold, nude and blue.

A dominating heel also for René Caovilla, who adds precious details: French lace, Swarovski crystal strasses, asymmetric faceted stones, handmade embroideries with roses created with micro paillettes and small pearls and mink trimmings.

Cesare Paciotti explains “The plateau is very high, which is fundamental to become a trend. I love 10cm spiked heels, but I have realized that women love either flat shoes or a 12 or even 14 cm proposed in the catwalk with a shoe dedicated to Dita Von Theese”.

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This is a modern version of a Byron, the British poets’ preferred tie.
Very similar to the Lavalliere, it only differs because of its length and its fabric, which is usually lighter.

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In London the first “personalization”.

The artisans’ luxury. In the laboratory where each and every bag is hand made.

Also Sandra Bullock had to give the laser-cut dress back, the one in orchid colour made with an impalpable fabric, with which she won the Golden Globe last January: at Bottega Veneta it works like that, no gifts, not even to celebrities. No logo, when everyone puts its brand everywhere.

No party or society evenings: the fashion designer, Tomas Maier, does not like the combination of food and fashion.

“Doctor Not” is the name he has been given by the American Edition of Vogue.

Now Maier has allowed this change: every client will have the possibility to have a custom made intertwined bag by choosing: colour, hides and size.

The Cabat, the icon bag costs 7 thousand euro and every year it is produced in 500 numbered pieces. It takes 2 artisans working for 2 days to make it rigorously by hand.

Here everything is handmade, a kind of celebration of the creativity and of the artisan ability, impossible to be found anywhere else.

Bottega Veneta was born in 1966, but only with the maison Maier it entered the world of luxury.

The firm has also started a school offering a three-year course for 14 students, to mould at home artisans to be assigned the realization of its bags.

An other challenge is represented by the furniture, at the Furniture Fair in Milan they will present small pieces, wood jugs and sets of glasses.

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Is closing the New York fashion week.

“I don’t want to dress only teenagers”, he says.

Outfits like an armour for “normal” women.

Outfits like armours with a form of their own, which hide (or enhance) the curves of the ladies that wear them.

Francisco Costa, principal designer for Calvin Klein, has rediscovered cupro fibres (cotton and cellulose), for dressing “ladies” who are also mothers, workers, who travel and already have a life of their own ”.

At the New York fashion week, designers presented a less out-of this world collection.

Also, men’s clothing designer, Italo Zucchelli, presented a more mature menswear collection, with a less “teen” look. Fewer sweatshirts and more suits, utilizing Mylar coating, a polyester film built into coats and suits.

And also, trench coats lined with the same silvery material used for electric blankets or leather coated cashmere cardigans.

Dark tones, such as black, blue and neutral. For him and her.

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We futurists want to free our race from all forms of neutrality, from dreadful and apathetic indecisiveness, from negatory pessimism and nostalgic, idealistic and enfeebling inertia.

We want to paint Italy with boldness and futurist risk, and dress the Italians, at last, in bellicose and joyous apparel.

Futurist clothes shall therefore be:

1. – Aggressive, in such a way to increase the bravery of the mighty and overwhelm the consciousness of the vile.
2. -Capable of enhancing agility and increasing the flexuosity of the body, to favour thrust during a combat, when on the double or on the charge.
3. Dynamic as per patterns and vibrant colours of the fabric (triangles, cones, spirals, ellipses and circles) that inspire love for danger, speed and assault, and aversion to stillness and immobility
4. – Comfortable, easy to put on and take off, suitable for aiming the gun, fording rivers and diving into the waters.
5. – Hygienic, that is, cut in such a way to allow proper perspiration during long marches and when climbing tough slopes,
6. – Joyous. Fabrics with enthralling colours and iridescent highlights. Use of muscular colours, deep violet, flame red, deep turquoise, deep green deep yellow, flame orange and vermilion.
7. -Illuminating. Phosphorescent fabric to spark off temerity within an assembly of fearful people,  spreading light all around when raining and adjusting the dullness of dusk in the streets and nerves.

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